I went to the Paju DMZ thinking it might be my only chance. That changed how I did it: I drove up from Seoul and covered everything around it, Imjingak, the tunnel, the observatory and the rest of the area, instead of picking one stop. Looking back I am glad I did. Here is the day in the order I would repeat it, with the practical things to check first.
Check these before you leave
- Bring a physical photo ID. Military checks happen on the way into the controlled area. Foreign visitors need a passport (or alien registration card). One guide says mobile IDs are not accepted, so carry the real card. I have not seen the rules for 2026 in an official document, so check again before you go.
- Book the tour, do not just turn up. The Third Tunnel and Dora Observatory are inside a controlled area and are visited on the official DMZ Peace Tourism route from Imjingak. Seats, times and group sizes are limited, so book ahead.
- Know the closing days. Paju City’s tourism portal lists the course as closed every Monday, on weekday public holidays and on Seollal and Chuseok days. Reported ticket-window hours are about 09:20 to 14:40.
- Allow about three hours for the course itself, which Paju City describes as Imjingak, the Third Tunnel, Dora Observatory, Dorasan Station, Tongilchon village and back to Imjingak.
Departure times and prices vary between sources (one lists a small fixed number of daily departures and a fee of about 10,000 won). Call or check the Paju DMZ tourism office the week before rather than trusting any single page, including this one.
1. Drive to Imjingak
I went by car, which suits this trip because Imjingak is the starting point whichever way you go. The usual route from Seoul is the Jayu-ro expressway along the Han River (Gimpo Airport, Haengju Bridge, Jayu-ro, Munsan, Imjingak), or the Tongil-ro route via Gupabal and Munsan. Imjingak itself is free to walk around and has no passport check at the gate. It is where the exhibitions, the Freedom Bridge and the memorials are, so give it time at the start or the end.
2. The Third Tunnel
The Third Tunnel was discovered in 1978 and is one of the underground passages found under the border. It is only visited as part of the tour, which is why the booking matters. Go in knowing it is underground and enclosed, so wear flat, comfortable shoes.
3. Dora Observatory
This was the part that stayed with me. Of course it is North Korea, and some of it you can see right away from the viewing platform. What fascinated me was being able to see, even from a distance, how people on the other side live. How much you can see depends on weather and haze, so a clear day is worth waiting for if you can choose.
4. The rest of the course
The official course continues to Dorasan Station, the northernmost station on the line, and the civilian village of Tongilchon, before returning to Imjingak. I covered the surroundings rather than skipping them, and I would do the same, because the tunnel and the observatory make more sense when you also see the station and the village that sit beside the border.
How I would time it
Aim for the first morning slot, so you reach Imjingak with time to spare and finish the course before the afternoon traffic back to Seoul. Spend the rest of the day at Imjingak itself, then drive home. Do not try to add much else: the course and the checkpoints take longer than the map suggests.
Course stops, closing days, ticket hours and ID rules were checked against Paju City’s tourism portal and travel guides in October 2026. They can change at short notice, especially for security reasons. Confirm before you go.
Photos: Korea Tourism Organization (KTO).
Sources: Paju City Tourism Portal, Imjingak DMZ; Korea Insider.